No Water From Your Well? Diagnostic Wizard
When a well quits, the cause is almost always one of five things: a tripped breaker, a bad pressure switch, a waterlogged pressure tank, a dead pump, or a well running low. Two of them you can check safely yourself in the next five minutes.
This wizard walks the same checks a well pro runs on the phone. Answer what you see at the breaker panel and pressure tank, and you'll get the likely cause, honest repair costs, and what to do right now.
How this works
This wizard follows the standard well-pump triage published by Family Handyman and Angi and used by service pros on the phone: confirm power first (the double-pole breaker), then read the pressure gauge — zero PSI separates pump-and-well problems from tank-and-plumbing problems — then use what you hear at the pressure switch to split switch failures (clicking, no start) from dead pumps (silence) and short-cycling (tank trouble). Sputtering faucets with fresh sediment get their own branch because they point past the equipment to the water level itself.
Cost ranges attached to each outcome come from 2026 national repair pricing (Angi, HomeAdvisor, HomeGuide): pressure switch replacement $150–$350, pressure tank replacement $400–$1,500 installed, and well pump replacement $977–$2,824 with a national average around $1,900 — deep-set submersibles run higher because pull labor scales with depth.
Two safety rules are built into every branch: never reset a breaker more than once into a fault, and never open the pressure switch cover — its contacts carry live 240V. This is a screening tool, not a diagnosis; a pro confirms with amp-draw and pressure tests at the wellhead. All non-DIY outcomes route to independent local well pros, and no-water requests get urgent routing.
Estimates only — independent local providers quote their own pricing. Data last reviewed 2026-07.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do I suddenly have no water from my well?
The five usual causes, roughly in order of how often pros find them: a tripped breaker, a failed pressure switch, a waterlogged pressure tank, a failed well pump, or a dropping water level in the well itself. The breaker and the pressure gauge reading narrow it down fast — that's the first two questions in this wizard.
What are the symptoms of a bad well pump pressure switch?
Clicking at the switch while the pump never starts, water that cuts out until someone taps the switch box, or a pump that won't kick on even with the gauge at zero. Replacement typically runs $150–$350 installed — far cheaper than a pump, which is why pros test the switch first.
How much does it cost to replace a well pump?
Most replacements land between $977 and $2,824, with a national average around $1,900. Depth is the big variable — deeper submersible pumps need more drop pipe, wire, and pull labor, and deep or difficult wells can exceed $3,000–$5,000.
Why are my faucets sputtering and spitting air?
Air in the lines usually means the well's water level is dropping near the pump intake, letting the pump pull air — especially during drought or after heavy use. Paired with new sediment, it's a classic sign of a well running low. Ease off water use and get a water-level check; running a pump dry destroys it.
Can I just keep resetting the well pump breaker?
No — reset it once. A breaker that re-trips is protecting you from an electrical fault, usually a shorting pump motor or damaged down-well wiring. Repeated resets are a shock and fire risk and can turn a repairable problem into a full pump replacement.
Prefer to just talk to someone?
Call or send the short form — we'll route you to an independent local pro.