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Well Shock Chlorination Calculator — How Much Bleach

Shock chlorination disinfects a well and its plumbing by soaking the whole system in a strong chlorine solution. The right amount of bleach depends on how much water is actually standing in your well — which comes from the well's depth, the depth to the water, and the casing diameter — and on the chlorine level you're aiming for.

Enter those numbers and your bleach strength to get the dose in pints, cups, and gallons. The calculator aims for 100 mg/L (ppm) by default — the level CDC's well-disinfection tables use — and you can switch to 50 or 200 mg/L. Read the safety notes before you pour anything, and follow your county or state health department's instructions if they differ.

How much bleach to shock a well: quick chart

For a 6-inch casing with 6% household bleach at 100 mg/L (CDC's level):

How much bleach to shock a well: quick chart
Well depthStatic levelStanding waterBleach needed
100 ft30 ft103 gal5.4 cups (2.7 pt)
150 ft40 ft162 gal7.0 cups (3.5 pt)
200 ft50 ft221 gal8.5 cups (4.3 pt)
250 ft60 ft279 gal10.1 cups (5.1 pt)
300 ft75 ft331 gal11.5 cups (5.7 pt)
400 ft100 ft441 gal14.4 cups (7.2 pt)

Formula: (standing water + ~100 gal plumbing) × 100 mg/L ÷ 60,000 mg/L per litre of 6% bleach. Add ~100 gal for the pressure tank, water heater, and pipes. Use the calculator above for other casing sizes, bleach strengths, or target levels.

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How this works

The dose is built from the volume of water standing in the well. Standing water depth is the total well depth minus the static water level (the depth from the surface down to the top of the water). Multiplying that by the gallons each foot of casing holds gives the standing gallons: about 0.16 gal/ft for a 2-inch casing, 0.65 for 4-inch, 1.02 for 5-inch, 1.47 for 6-inch, 2.61 for 8-inch, 23.5 for a 24-inch bored well, and 52.9 for a 36-inch bored well (gal/ft = diameter² × 0.0408, diameter in inches). A 150-foot well with water standing at 50 feet has 100 feet of water; in a 6-inch casing that's about 147 gallons. The calculator adds about 100 gallons for the pressure tank, water heater, and pipes you'll draw chlorinated water into.

Bleach needed = target concentration × total gallons ÷ the bleach's strength. Bleach labelled 6% holds about 60,000 mg of chlorine per litre, so reaching 100 mg/L takes 1 part bleach to about 600 parts water. In household measures, 100 mg/L is about 24 fl oz (3 cups) of 5.25% bleach or 21 fl oz of 6% bleach per 100 gallons — the same 24 ounces per 100 gallons Wake County (NC) publishes — and 200 mg/L is about 3 pints of 5.25% bleach per 100 gallons, Virginia Tech's figure. Like the agency guides, the calculator treats the label percentage as weight per volume.

Why the target is a choice: published guidance genuinely differs. CDC's well-disinfection tables are built on 100 mg/L, Pennsylvania DEP uses 100–150 ppm, and Wake County (NC) and the Illinois well code about 100 ppm. Virginia Cooperative Extension, UGA, and Texas A&M AgriLife use the classic 200 ppm shock, and North Carolina DHHS's 2024 flood table works out to about the same. Oregon State University Extension recommends 50–100 ppm, Georgia DPH sets 50 ppm as a minimum, and the Minnesota Department of Health allows 50–200 ppm but warns against going higher: more chlorine raises the water's pH, which makes chlorine a weaker disinfectant, and strong or undiluted bleach corrodes pump parts and wiring. We default to 100 mg/L because it meets or sits inside nearly every range we checked. 200 mg/L is a reasonable choice for a flooded or badly contaminated well, and 50 mg/L is a floor that works best with test strips to confirm the chlorine reaches every tap. Keeping the chlorine in the system for 12–24 hours matters as much as the starting dose.

Shock chlorination is the right tool for a one-time contamination event — a positive coliform test after well work, flooding, or a repair. It is the wrong tool when contamination keeps coming back: recurring positive tests point to a compromised casing or cap, surface-water intrusion, or an aquifer problem that chlorine only masks for a few weeks. If your retest is positive again, stop re-dosing and get the well inspected — that's the point at which a pro should take over.

Estimates only — independent local providers quote their own pricing. Data last reviewed 2026-10.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much bleach do I need to shock my well?

First work out the standing water: (well depth − static water level) × the gallons per foot for your casing (0.65 for 4-inch, 1.47 for 6-inch, 2.61 for 8-inch). Add about 100 gallons for the household plumbing. For a 100 mg/L shock, use about 3 cups (24 fl oz) of 5.25% plain bleach, or 21 fl oz of 6% bleach, per 100 gallons of that total. For 200 mg/L, double it (about 3 pints of 5.25% bleach per 100 gallons). A typical 150-foot, 6-inch well with water at 50 feet holds about 147 gallons; at 100 mg/L that takes about 3.3 pints (6.6 cups) of 6% bleach.

What chlorine level should I use: 50, 100, or 200 ppm?

100 ppm is the calculator's default. It's the level CDC's well tables use, and it matches Pennsylvania DEP (100–150 ppm), Wake County NC, and the Illinois well code. Virginia Tech, UGA, and Texas A&M extension guides use 200 ppm, a common choice after flooding or for a badly contaminated well. Oregon State Extension recommends 50–100 ppm. Minnesota's health department advises against going above 200 ppm, because extra chlorine raises the pH and makes the chlorine less effective, and it can corrode pump parts. If your county or state publishes its own dose, follow that.

How long after shocking a well can I drink the water?

Don't drink, cook with, or bathe in the water while chlorine is in the system. Let it sit 12–24 hours, then flush it out through an outside hose, away from your septic system, gardens, and streams, until you can no longer smell chlorine. That can take hours or a day or more of running water. Even after the chlorine clears, the water isn't confirmed safe until it passes a test. Wait about 7–14 days, then test for total coliform and E. coli before you drink it again.

Why does my well keep testing positive for bacteria?

Shock chlorination fixes a one-time contamination event, not an ongoing one. If bacteria return after you've disinfected correctly, something is letting them back in — a cracked or unsealed well cap, a compromised casing, surface-water seeping in, or a septic system too close to the well. At that point, re-dosing just resets the clock. Have a licensed well pro inspect the wellhead and casing and test the source, rather than repeating DIY chlorination.

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