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Well Pump Not Working: What to Do Right Now

No water at any tap usually means the well pump isn't delivering — and a few safe checks will tell you whether it's a simple reset or a job for a well pro.

Work through the visual checks below. Nothing here requires opening the pump, the well cap, or any electrical cover — those are pro territory.

If this is unsafe or getting worse right now, don't wait — send an emergency request and it's flagged for priority routing to an independent local pro.

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Step 2 of 3The details

Where is it, and what's going on?

Well Pump Repair · Emergency — no water right now

Free · No obligation · Independent local pros

What to do in the first 5 minutes

  1. Check the breaker: find the well-pump and pressure-switch breakers in your panel and see if either has tripped. Reset once — if it trips again, stop and call a pro.
  2. Read the pressure-tank gauge (the round dial on the tank): normal is usually 40–60 psi. A reading near zero means the pump isn't building pressure.
  3. Look at the pressure switch box (usually on the tank's plumbing) without opening it — if it's visibly burned or clicking rapidly, note that for the pro.
  4. Check for a blown GFCI or a disconnect switch near the pressure tank that may have been switched off.
  5. If the breaker holds but you still have no water, or it trips again, call a local well pump pro — the safe checks are done.
Illustration of the well equipment in a basement or well house. The water line from the well enters through the wall and runs along the floor to a tank tee under the pressure tank. On the line sit the pressure switch and a pressure gauge. The water then passes a whole-house sediment filter and rises to the house plumbing. On the wall above, a breaker panel feeds the pressure switch, which feeds a control box that sends power down to the pump.
Where to look: the pump breaker in the panel, the gauge on the tank tee, and the pressure switch beside it. Look only; never open the switch or control box covers.

Do not do this

  • Never open the pressure switch cover or touch its contacts — 240V is present and can be lethal.
  • Never remove the well cap or try to pull the pump yourself — it's heavy, electrified, and a contamination and injury risk.
  • Never reset a tripped pump breaker more than once; repeated tripping means an electrical fault that needs a pro, not another reset.
  • Don't run the pump dry or keep cycling power hoping it catches — that can burn out the motor.

Common causes

Failed pressure switch (common and cheap)

The switch that tells the pump when to run can burn out or stick, and the pump never starts. It's an above-ground part a pro replaces quickly — usually $120–$175 installed.

Waterlogged or failed pressure tank

If the tank loses its air charge, the pump short-cycles or won't hold pressure. A pro tests the tank's air charge; replacement runs $300–$700 installed.

Tripped breaker or electrical fault

A one-off trip may just need a reset, but a breaker that keeps tripping points to a wiring fault, a failing motor, or a stuck pump — all pro diagnostics.

Failed pump or dropped water level

A pump at the end of its 8–15 year life, or a well level that's dropped below the pump, leaves you with no water. Confirming this means pulling the pump — a pro job. Replacement runs $973–$2,822.

Two well pressure tanks in cutaway. In the healthy tank, compressed air above the bladder pushes stored water out between pump starts, and its pressure graph shows a few long cycles between 40 and 60 psi. In the waterlogged tank the air cushion is gone and the tank is full of water, and its graph shows the pump starting and stopping many times in the same period: short-cycling.
A tank that has lost its air charge makes the pump short-cycle or fail to hold pressure, one of the common above-ground causes a pro can test.

Diagnose it now

What it typically costs

The cheap, common fixes are above ground: a pressure switch runs $120–$175 installed and a pressure tank $300–$700. A full pump replacement runs $973–$2,822 (avg $1,897); wells over 150 ft can run $2,000–$10,000+ because drop pipe, wire, and pull labor scale with depth. A pro tests the switch and tank before anyone talks about a new pump.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do I suddenly have no water from my well?

Most often a tripped breaker, a failed pressure switch, or a waterlogged pressure tank — all above-ground and relatively cheap. Less often it's the pump itself or a dropped water level, which needs a pro to pull and inspect. Start with the breaker and the tank gauge.

Why does my well pump keep running and not shut off?

A pump that runs constantly usually points to a stuck pressure switch, a waterlogged pressure tank, or a leak somewhere in the system. Running non-stop can overheat and burn out the motor, so shut it off at the breaker and call a well pro.

Can I fix a well pump myself?

You can safely check the breaker and read the tank gauge, but the actual repairs — the pressure switch, the tank, or the pump — involve 240V power and a heavy pump down the well. Those are pro jobs for safety and to avoid damaging the system.

The service that handles this

Well Pump Repair

Guidance only — independent local providers assess and price their own work. Last reviewed 2026-10.

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